So in today’s video we’re going to be talking about the L134 leopard frog pleco. Now, these guys are a fish that is very near and dear to my heart. I absolutely love these guys. I’ve had them, for, I think, seven months now and I’ve got a long time to keep them. I’ve got a lot of stuff to still learn with these guys, but I’ve got my head pretty good around the way to care for these guys and I’m not an experienced breeder.
I haven’t read these guys, yet it can take a while, but I can give you guys a lot of information on the basic care of these guys, the tank setup, what you got to feed them, the water parameters, and everything like that that you need to know before you get them. So hopefully, this will be like a 101 care guide thing over before you guys go and get your first L134s because they can be pretty pricey. So you don’t want to make too many mistakes, and this fish is a very rewarding fish to keep in the long term.
There’s a lot of things that are really cool about this fish, and I’m going to talk about that in today’s video.
So, the first thing we’re going to talk about with the L134 is the appearance. Obviously, they speak for themselves, but something that’s interesting about them is obviously they have like the colorations that make them look like a bit like a leopard and a frog combined. They have a couple of different types of patterns. There’re spotty patterns out there there are stripy patterns, but the interesting thing is when they’re juveniles and when they’re young they have this banded kind of striping across the body and then, as they start to get older about that year to a year and a half mark. They start to become more like an adult version with spotty marks.
Instead, so that’s how they kind of like look a really healthy leopard frog pleco will have very vibrant colors. You don’t want to see them being washed out or anything like that, because that can mean that they are unhealthy and stressed, or something like that. So, you really want that vibrant color and with time they really develop that and become super vibrant in an aquarium, especially with really good foods and stuff like that, they look really cool.
These guys are actually catfish. These guys are a picultia, so they’re not like a high pencil. Just these guys are a peculiar. This basically just signifies where they come from in the wild. So, these guys come from Brazil. They come in really like low streams with fast-flowing water, highly oxygenated water and lots of like little rocks and stuff like that, and their streams are really warm now.
Because they’re catfish they can live for a pretty long time in the aquarium, especially with some good care, so people have seen these guys live for like over 10 years before I personally obviously haven’t seen them live that long, but I’ve definitely heard people keeping them for a very, very long time in the aquarium.
So, with some good care, you can have a pet that’s going to last you ages, unlike a guppy or something like that, that lasts, maybe a year to a year and a half and with size. These guys are more on your smaller side. So, these guys get to about 11 centimeters, which is like four and a half inches. So that’s like the max size, that’s after a couple of years of growing up they get to about that size and that’s basically as big as they get so they’re, not huge, like a big albino sailfin or something like that.
These guys are very small, which is really nice because you can keep them in quite a small aquarium which brings me to my next point, which is the tank size for these guys. So I’d recommend normally a 20 gallon to a 30 gallon, even bigger, maybe for some adults, but definitely, when you get those juveniles you want to keep them in a relatively smaller aquarium. Maybe, with a couple of like did the fish up above so some neon tetras or something like that put them in there.
You want like five or six of them in a little colony and they’ll go really well in, like a 20-gallon tank, like I said, maybe a 30 gallon, but once they get to that big 11-centimeter mark, if you’ve still got all six or five. Maybe you can upgrade them to a big 55 gallon, like the one behind me now, as for water parameters, for these guys, like i was talking about before they come from those fast-flowing rivers in Brazil and in those rivers, we have very, very soft water normally.
So, you want to keep your aquarium like you want to keep the tds and the water down quite a bit. You want to keep it like super low, but just on the lower side, you don’t want African cichlid water. You want to keep the temperature up, which is one of the things a lot of people forget about especially stores and stuff, like that they want to keep the aquarium at like 24 degrees Celsius, which is like maybe 76 to 78 degrees Fahrenheit. You really want to bump that up.
You want to get that to about 80 to 86 degrees Fahrenheit, you want them really hot, which is also 26 to 30 degrees Celsius, which is what I keep mine at mine, actually are on a heater that goes to 29 degrees during the day and then Turns off with the light at night and then the room’s heated, so it goes down to like 27, so that kind of like gives them that wild feeling of you know when the sun goes down.
The water gets just a little bit colder in the aquarium, which you don’t have to do at all. This is just me being really particular with my fish, but, like I said you want to have soft water, so low TDS in the water which most people will have in their tap water, go and get it tested at your local fish store or something like that And you want to have that water really high.
Now, as for ph, you want to keep that ph on the lower side. You don’t want to go over 7.5, but 7.5 down to 6 is pretty good for these guys. I, like that, a little bit of tannin and acid in the water now as the set up for these guys. These guys love caves now they’re, like any other pleco like a bristle nose or something like that.
They do absolutely love caves, so normally what I would recommend is in each aquarium. I’d keep like a cave per pleco or like you’ll notice. What’s gonna happen is when they go into their tank they’re going to start to pick off areas. So, you’ll have like one choose a certain area and you know nudge, like it’s friends and try and keep them away from that area and they’ll like pick a cave and stick to it for a very long time.
So, you want to provide lots of little hiding spots for these guys personally in my ideal aquarium. For these guys. Some sand on the bottom is really good. Some really fine sand that you’ve washed before you put into the aquarium, and then I would do some little caves so buy some like clay, caves or I’d, make some clay caves and get them fired and then put them in the aquarium.
And then I’d do some drew foot over the top or I’d do some like slate pieces or something like that to imitate like the wild where they come from with these big boulders and rivers and stuff like that, that they hide underneath so that’d, be my ideal aquarium set up for these guys in like a 20 or 30-gallon aquarium, like I said before, and that should be perfect. I definitely recommend the sand because I’ve heard it I’m not going to state that.
I know this for a fact, but they definitely do eat some of that sand to clear out their guts and to get some of those microbes and stuff like that to get their guts flowing properly. So that can be very important and it also helps to keep the aquarium stable because there are tons of beneficial bacteria in the sand. So that’s my ideal aquarium and, like I said with the behavior you’re, going to see them pick little areas of the aquarium and become very territorial and these guys with breeding.
I’m no expert like I said at the start of the video, but they can take a while, so these guys will start to breed at that two and a half to three-year mark, and up. The way they’re gonna breed is a male will pick a cave and he’s gonna come out of that cave and try and entice a female to come into that cave now. The female is gonna come in he’s gonna trap her in there. This can become a moment where the aquarium can become very aggressive, and these guys can become a little bit aggressive and excited, and what’s gonna happen is he’ll trap that female in there until she lays eggs.
If she doesn’t lay eggs, he can sometimes kill her, which can be very sad and that’s about all the aggression they’ll show to each other that can be lethal, but he’ll trap her in there she’ll lay the eggs he’ll let her out and then he’ll take care of those eggs until they hatch and then he lets him out of the cave but like I said they will pick little areas in the aquarium and they’re not going to be aggressive to any fish at all.
No, no neon tetras will get eaten or anything like that they’re very peaceful fish. They really only show aggression towards each other, which is most of the time just trying to find a bit of territory like an angel fish or something like that, and then my last thing, I’m going to say about these guys, which I believe is very important. If you’re, trying to breed them or if you’re, trying to make them feel really comfortable, is do the fish, I’m breeding up a ton of dither fish in my brand new fish room. Dither fish are really important for a lot of plecos because they come from areas like the river, like I said before, where they’re the bottom-dwelling fish.
Now these guys are used to seeing little tetras like thousands of tetras swimming above them and like lots of little schooling, fish and stuff like that because that means that there are no predators around because there’s heaps of fish around none of the little tiny fish are getting eaten or anything like that, so that means it’s safe, but when those fish aren’t around it normally means that there’s a predator in the area.
So, what happens is if we have them in our aquarium and they don’t have any do the fish above them or fish swimming above them. They naturally think that there are predators around and they don’t become comfortable and they don’t come out or anything like that. So I highly recommend them to the fish. I’d recommend something like neon, tetras or little like raspberries or anything like that. That’s got the same water conditions as these guys.
The last thing I’m going to talk about is the diet with these guys. So, these guys are procultia, which means they are omnivorous. So, these guys aren’t like your high-paying sisters, where they’ll only be like carnivorous and only like a little bit of veg. These guys, like a 50-50 balance, so lots of uh greens and they also don’t mind some like mices shrimp. They love blood worms and they love repashy and stuff like that.
So, when you get them, if you get them as juveniles, I would highly recommend feeding little small foods, because otherwise, they can trap the food inside of their mouth because a thing that people don’t know about plecos is they have hooks inside of their throat. So if they swallow something, they can’t actually spit that back out, so a lot of people actually lose plecos early on in the piece and I’ve been actually victim to this before I’ve lost one of my early, like in my colony of leopard foil plecos. I bought nine. I
lost one right at the start because I was feeding blood worms and some of the bigger fish could get them down, but one of the little fish choked on a blood worm, and that was game over. So, at the start, when you first get these guys feed them lots of zucchini some green beans, mine, absolutely love green beans, some repashy super green, some repashy grub pie. They also like a lot. I tend to lean more towards the vegetable side, because at the start you don’t want to bloat them or anything like that.
So, a mixed diet of little like pellets as well doesn’t like doesn’t go Australia. They love little tiny micro pellets and that’s what i feed them in their juveniles and as they start to get a bit bigger, you can start to introduce those mices shrimp and bloodworms and things like that into their diet and they’re going to absolutely love it. So that’s it! That’s basically everything you need to know about how to care and breed the l134 leopard frog pleco.